/robowaifu/ - DIY Robot Wives

Advancing robotics to a point where anime catgrill meidos in tiny miniskirts are a reality.

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Welcome to /robowaifu/, the exotic AI tavern where intrepid adventurers gather to swap loot & old war stories...


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Madoka.mi prototype thread & robowaifu 3D modeling/printing general. AllieDev 09/17/2021 (Fri) 19:58:39 No.13288
As was suggested in another thread after I am making a model of this image and will attempt to 3D print it into a working prototype and am following the suggestion of Kiwi as to not derail the Actuator thread. >>13205 >>13216 The goals so far will be to test whether or not the average robowaifu technician can simply design and 3D print their own parts. At the end I hope to be able to share what I've made. This is also a good thread for any Anons to share their Digital 2D/3D or 3D printed creations of robowaifus or robowaifu parts. >=== -minor edit of subject
Edited last time by Chobitsu on 09/17/2021 (Fri) 22:37:33.
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>>13461 >Capstan drives Very interesting, I do prefer mechanisms that do not rely on gears as they tend to generate less noise and heat while being more resistant to wear. A properly engineered capstan drive should never need replacing or maintenance. Not sure if it was you without your name but, an Anon mentioned capstan drives are inherently capable of having both drums remotely connected to localize mass. Though this is true, it would require careful engineering to ensure low friction on the strings. >Double joints I do not use those so outside of gunpla. I was thinking she would use normal joints. If you have a good reason for her to use double joints though, please share. >External veins We are planning on making her hollow for many reasons. Keeping her wires hidden within is a yet another advantage to her being hollow. As for pipes in her articulation points, do you mean bushings? Brass bushings can be made very thin with good friction properties. I thought we were planning on using normal bearings. Segmenting her design is indeed necessary for her to have proper articulation, glad you are already thinking about how to segment her design. >Weight distribution Ideally her mass would be mostly localized within her feet and hips. Feet to keep her balanced, the knightmare wheels on her ankle wings will help with this. As you mentioned, spreading out her points of contact with the ground is also a benefit of that design. Hips for balancing as an inverted pendulum. Many self balancing machines use this principle. The higher her mass is, the more torque is required for her to fall over. Since we're planning for her to move her upper torso, having the mass in her hips would be high enough for balancing without adding torsional forces to her waist servo. We're definitely getting a lot of her design figured out. An editable online design document would be good to organize and update her specifications over time. Any idea for a good place to host such?
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>>13463 >>13463 >Capstan Drives I only found these capstan drives yesterday when trying to research into possible joints for Madoka.mi. Thought it would fit the elbow joints very nicely to look into something like that which could hook into the hollow skeleton idea and be form fitting if worked with. >external veins Its an idea I threw out there since I assumed by the end the skeleton will be covered by both internals, the shell/chasis, and some kind of flexible stretchy skin material covering the surface of her exposed skin areas with the chasis shielding everything. The skin material would also help with things like rain or liquid not damaging her by acting as some form of external waterproofing. There have been Japanese robots that have successfully been created like that and Im sure the board has seen similar creations before: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7F43R8ghTiU >Weight distribution At least we have the general idea for her to be fairly balanced. Better to have her be firmly on the ground and a good plan to solve one of the first hurdles of any robot design. I redid the general shape of the breastplate today like I said I would and also modeled some of the gems. Tried to bend the shape into the right position but I did not use a curve for this one and cut it out of a plain after fixing all the Ngons. Chiseling away at completing the rough draft before all of the technical details need to be modeled in like screwholes and plate sections. I do know AutoCAD and Solidworks, but do not have a personal license for those. Would think it would be best to leave an indent on the plate where they should be and put a USB 3.0 or C Slot in the center. The gems themselves would be part translucent plastic like a fake bead for cost effectiveness, and part solid on the bottom center with enough room for all a LED in the middle to give the nice pinkish glowing effect and all the internals of a standard USB for at least 16 GB per crystal as a glorified custom thumbdrive like we brought up before. Storage space is getting smaller and more efficient every year. I have not seriously dabbled in AI but I have skimmed the thread here on it. How much onboard storage would be needed for her OS? Her head would be definitely large enough for some memory storage and some sensory motors like Sight but It may be better to store the onboard memory SSDs where her heart would be since the upper torso would be more fortified than the head and be more accessible than taking off the hair or completely undressing her via unscrewing the connector panels in the "new" back and working inside from there. The Gems would also be a good alternative to memory wiping her over long periods time as they would be where all of her temporary and new memories go for each day save the few ones she chooses to store internally just like a human brain. >Editable Online Design Document Maybe Google Docs? so the Document can be edited in real time but only allowing actual project members to edit the document. There are permission levels for those. Let me know if you have any other ideas.
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>>13470 For the sake of clarity, I thought she'd just be hollow. There would be no skeleton, her servos would just move her exoskeleton. >Skin That's an interesting question. Will look into it, immediate thought would be a soft polyurea but, there's many options. >Flash drive gems Good idea to keep things functional while matching the aesthetic. >Her OS and the hardware related to it. Was thinking we could just use a phone. Android phones with 64gb of storage and good enough RAM and processirs are remarkably low cost and energy efficient compared to other options. The screen can be used for things as well. For reference, we could use Intel's Openbot as a base. That application can navigate and recognize things using just the phones built in camera and only uses 23.9 mb in the latest release. https://github.com/isl-org/OpenBot I made a new google doc for us. Published link with a link to editable version. https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vQjJm3G2H2yGCJhGv6XsPUXaMMQz1Pmc4v81iNVm2iFvOTufvHc4Qje0FgV_NRu6LVij8k8QgCwvRZV/pub
>>13472 Its alright. I appreciate the enthusiasm and effort though. Am setting it to be only editable by contributors to avoid trolling. Link to Design Document: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1p3O5FutFCu1yGnNHEZ0Xfkbvdt7VyeOMsi3u6i0BatU/edit?usp=sharing
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>>13474 Yeah, that was me without my name.
>>13473 Your design document looks pretty good so far. I'm kiwidev so enable access for that request.
>>13476 Alright I accepted the request and sent it out. Its somewhat disorganized but I tried to at least make a skeleton to it. There are obviously areas I did not add yet. But its a living document to be changed over time.
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>>13475 Do you have any ideas on how we could get her to talk on her own? Was thinking we could get her to do simple things like state observations such as the the weather and wave hello as a starting point. After not being happy with trying to move the breastplate into the right shape was turning out, I practiced some new techniques today by modeling a door with hinges and a handle and a doorframe as to better learn how to model joints. Also doubled as an array exercise. I now know what I was doing wrong when trying to model the sharper edges on the hard surface parts of her design and it was a really simple fix. As for Implementing the DOF, that is a matter of rigging and armature bone constraints in Blender while using actual thought in the actual modeling/design process after the model is completed. Also was looking at smoothing out 3D prints with sandpaper to make them look better and prevent accidental damage to robowaifus from sharp edges on some prints. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTE9bJyUO_8
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>>13497 >Speech Implementing a simple chatbot with text to speech would work well enough. She'd be limited but, that's fine for now. We can add to her as needed. Having her ping a weather server on demand wouldn't be too dificult for example. Good to see your progress in modeling. Madoka will surely benefit from it. Sanding and painting really does make a huge difference. If you use fine layer lines on a decent printer, just painting is often enough for a smooth surface too. Looking forward to smoothing out her first prototypes. Currently I'm debating on sensored vs sensorless brushless drive motors. Sensorless is easier and cheaper but, her battery life would be a little lower. I want to do sensorless with blheli s for ease of production. That's the cheapest and easiest and most accessible. Do you think she'd ever need to slow at high torque? Aside from using slightly less current, sensored motors can provide significantly more torque at lower speeds. It would be a design trade off, and I'm interested in your opinion on the matter.
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>>13498 Happy Birthday Madokami! Today is her character's Birthday. Did not think the 10th anniversary celebration was still going on with more new official artwork on her birthday >Do you think she'd ever need to slow at high torque? Unless you are doing something dumb like pushing her down a hill or ramp, probably not. Would still make sense to have some kind of break mechanism just in case and design her for a max speed fast enough to outrun most people while on her wheels. We do live in interesting times. >sensored vs sensorless brushless drive motors? I am no mechanic, but smooth acceleration looks great with sensored motors going from slow speeds since she will likely not be out in public for a while and She also needs to be able to use them daily. Will also not likely ever need to move at the local speed limit in your home. Can always revise the design when needed. The goal is to get her working in the first place and then go from there. https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/sensored-vs-sensorless-brushless-motor-applications/ Had also saw a neat open source wrist design that we could modify to fit the frame. Someone even managed to attach bowden tubes to it and a shoulder for a hypothetical lightweight robot arm. They found those pnuematics to not be a great solution mostly due to friction. This guy did not include a link to the original wrist design he printed a copy of. But I did find the source of it before finding this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahSS5HUylT8 Also thought that as a future goal, a Self preservation matrix of sorts for the AI part would be helpful since its not like she is supposed to be a generic factory arm. I had also ordered the replacement parts I needed for my printer. I heard mixed things about Capricorn so I went with the TL series since most PLA/PLA+ filaments and the one I use are a 1.75mm filament.
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>>13504 Happy Birthday to a wonderful waifu. >She isn't going to need low speed torque. Figured as much but, second opinions are good to have. For the sake of simplicity, cost, and development time, the first version will used sensorless brushless motors with BLHeli_S software. (At walking speeds the difference in smoothness between sensored and not won't be noticiable with this software.) Drone motors with low KV ratings (around 1000) would only need a simple 4 or 5:1 reduction for effective low speed control. Field Oriented Control (FOC) can be implemented down the line. Making a prototype as soon as possible should be a goal. >Open source wrist That wrist design is really good for compact two axis joint. Definitely a possibility Madoka.mi will use it. Skyentific has a wealth of great information as well. If she didn't need to operate on battery power for hours, steppers would have been the way to go too. >Self preservation When we have the ability to prograam her AI with such abstract concepts as self preservation, some form of the other laws of robotics would be good. We could advertise her as being "Asimov compliant." Good luck with your new tube, hope we'll have things to print soon. On the note of speed, Producing a half scale prototype would be useful for working out kinks in her design while helping to accelerate development on the full scale model.
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>>13504 Created a parts/cost/mass list for the current estimates related to Madoka.mi. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PYzP5fISoMx79wDM1jODuUP9uznD8W3u_7-4boE-WX0/edit?usp=sharing
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>>13517 I had requested access. Though you can also merge it with the master document to save time later. I made some of the details on her dress using the techniques I've learned over the weekend and will end up remaking the skirt entirely at some point since it looks very bad. Was thinking of using some of Allie's design with Madoka.mi's high heel frame but with a rounded square that fits her heel while hiding everything under her foot plating for now. Might just be overthinking it. Was also looking into slicing the frames into different connectable pieces for ease of printing. Thinking Mostly on the horizontal side since she should be able to lean forward and to the side like we discussed earlier by segmenting her torso.
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>>13522 Access to you has been granted. Dress looks pretty accurate to the picture. You even included her crotch light which feels both pervy but useful. A crotch light helps with low light navigation. As for using Allie's design elements, recycling what you have already made is a great way to save time. I'm personally a big fan of kitbashing, both with model kits and digital files. Slicing her frame is absolutely necessary on many levels. First, horizontal prints have superior strength since layer adhesion is less of a problem. Second, Print times for flat objects are substantially faster compared to tall objects. Third, they are easier to post process since the ridges of print layers are less of an issue. Making as many things as possible out of flat interlocking panels is ideal. Also, not sure what printer you own but, I have an Ender 3 with a print volume of 220x220x250 build frame.
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>>13523 Yeah I had worried about that. I can always remove it and change the design slightly. May be useful later on in the process, but it seemed very redundant and cosmetic in the artwork. Had also just thought her torso light would be great for determining battery level. Its not that hard to program the RGB value of an LED to change when the battery is low. Printing horizontally always produced the best looking prints as well. Ender 5's are fairly close in build size but with a 300mm z axis. I think that each of the 3 torso segments may have be made out of 6 or so interconnected segments due to the limited build volume and each segment of her arms/legs in 2-4 pieces since they don't outright bend. They will also need to be slightly thicker to have a strong connection but it can still easily accommodate what we need in a hollow design.
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>>13525 I honestly would be more comfortable without her crotch light. Having her belly button light functioning as a battery indicator would be easy to implement. I'll add that to her electronic design. High Speed TPU is mostly PLA with TPU alloyed in. This material would allow her to be folded from flat panels, like papercraft. This TPU also has really good impact resistance. Thickness would need to be around a mm from my experience with it.
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>>13526 I have removed the redundant light. Also did some research on TPU and High Speed TPU. Could not find any good videos or resources on high speed TPU beyond the average 3D printing shill not showing anything they were talking about. Like an example print to show off the elasticity for a skin-like material. It might be good for making a robowaifu huggable, but it seems too flexible and may not be strong enough to avoid accidentally damaging her internals when she collides with anything. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACRh51hdBxo Though I have never printed with flexible filaments before and would feel more comfortable combining something flexible like TPU with a PLA+ shell underneath to protect her internals.
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I got around to fleshing out the shoes more with some of Allie's design for the heels that can be retracted upwards when moving on wheels and angling the wheels slightly to the sides so they don't scratch up her legs when retracting. Can be made shorter if needed. Also had to make the shoes slightly wider and thicker as to avoid 2 problems: 1. Fragility 2. Allowing room to fit her internals. All while I somehow fixed the shape to be more perfectly rounded than it was before on the outer foot plating in the process. Will of course break it down later so the outer plating comes off after removing some screws for easy maintenance Should look more into a proper ankle joint since her connector is hidden by the lower part of her legs and the two giant screws in the design and did not model it yet though it seems like a simple 1, maybe 2 DOF joint so the feet can move up/down from the drawing and actually turn rather than having some odd backwards driving design when attached to her dress.
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>>13534 Thanks for changing the design. I will print some things in high speed TPU tomorrow to demonstrate its properties. I wanted to do so earlier but was unable to. Any suggestions are welcome. Could be useful for skin in select areas. >>13547 Good job incorporating the landspinner wheels into the design. They do look a tad long but should be fine. Widening the shoes made them look more natural. Her ankle joint only needs to fold up and down with 1 dof. That's enough to deal with rolling around and they would naturally hang down when she's floating on her dress. I've been doing more research into lowering her mass while speeding up production time. Folding TPU is not the best option. Printing with one perimeter/vase mode then filling with foam would provide the fastest production times with good strength. Printing an outer and inner shell will provide the best results. This thread is interesting to read. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2964377-Injecting-Polyurethane-Foam-into-single-walled-3d-printed-parts
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A good video on the importance of walls and thickness. I personally recommend a mix of nozzle width * 1.5 and 2 to 4 shells depending on needed strength. From personal experience, infill provides very little strength compared to adding more walls. I don't print with infill unless it's needed for internal support of overhanging features like holes.
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>>13566 He is a great resource. I use his bed leveling program every time I start up my machine. >print multiple hollow walls as a mold Had not thought to do that with cura. Typically youtubers I have found would stress slower speeds for higher quality and stronger prints which actually works in practice but is time consuming. Been looking into breaking apart the basemesh into mechanical parts like in some Japanese modelers of an older thread I found on here and SophieDev did. Was interesting how one of the Japanese modelers replaced the whites of the anime eyes with a bright light behind the iris that was able to track movement. Though I would imagine that would hurt to look at. Can't find the thread it was in on here again. Also stuck on adding the 5 detachable segments to the hands in a mechanical way that makes sense and getting that angled purple metal part to fit with the hand as a joint covering. Also learned how to make a glove effect today by experimenting. Have not tried to fix the replacement Breastplate for a few days. I did make a swappable hand with modeled generic anime fingernails underneath though I assumed a white glove that slides past the wrist guard may make more sense for a more mechanical design to look like the picture. Though probably have to make them thinner at the risk of more fragile fingers.
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>>13571 Gunpla could help with getting ideas for breaking her basemesh apart into pieces. I would also recommend using hollow cylinders to connect the parts. >Replacing the whites of eyes with LEDs Fascinating idea given optical qualities of light emitting sources but, I do worry about power consumption and staring into LEDs could hurt like you said. If you find a convincing example, it may be worthwhile for further investigation. I'm personally a fan of follow me eyes. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BwAM_V2Jhg >Stuck on the hand flare For now, focusing on her "nude" mesh would be most important. Adding flare to a minimum viable Madokami would sensible. The breastplate can plug into her, once we have her base printed, it will help in figuring out how the flare would fit. You've done a good job with her hand. I really like the gloved hand, Still having the nails being vaguely visible makes her appear more alive. Making them thinner will be fine with TPU, They would just flex.
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>>13572 I remembered that these generic Diodes exist today and can be easily programmed for her lights. Should not be that hard to find some pink/purple Diodes. since they are cheap. Though there are probably better flat LED's that would be better though most the LED strips are all way too long and would need to be cut since we don't need several feet of LED lights. One strip is also about as cheap as the diodes and more than the length that is needed. With the LED Strips, we would just need to set the remote to change the light to pink with some form of either very rough purple plastic in the center, or something else that is not fragile and won't be removed easily on the torso and then use the rest on the wings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP1YC7XiZRs
>>13573 I found cheap pink LEDs on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-100pcs-Resistors-Included-Emitting/dp/B077XDNCN2/ref=sxin_14_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-cGluayBsZWQ%3D-ac_d_rm_rm_rm&cv_ct_cx=pink+led&dchild=1&keywords=pink+leds&pd_rd_i=B077XDNCN2&pd_rd_r=09fabcf6-36f1-49dd-9856-9a3aa69315da&pd_rd_w=m4JoZ&pd_rd_wg=jKTXY&pf_rd_p=c41d1f6c-956c-4fe2-8019-1663b7e1dd23&pf_rd_r=AE4WGCZMGWCRNRDEBXDF&psc=1&qid=1634073317&sr=1-1-12d4272d-8adb-4121-8624-135149aa9081 A hundred LEDs and the necessary resistors for around 7 cents each. LED strips cost more but, being addressable makes it easier to add light effects. I may have missed it but, I don't think the video touched on how it is best to provide power to both ends of the strip to ensure even brightness. I've been researching ariless tires and think I found a way to make her semi-flexible using TPU, will update later.
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>>13588 The video only explained how to connect them. I've used them before and equal lighting is not a problem with these lights. The Diodes are more programmable but at the expense of not being able to program rave lights. Started on the hand flair today with parts that plug into that wrist piece like in the drawing. Will have to adjust the center to be more hollow to fit the wrist and add more utility later. The blocking out of the basemesh has been completed besides the rounded end near her ankles. The ankles are at an angle so its been concerning me that attempts to make a decent shape like in the drawing have not come out great despite my attempts to find better techniques for it. Though I recall agreeing to have that part of the design changed for technical reasons.
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>>13593 Good job thus far with the hand flair. If the basemesh is completed, it would be helpful for you to upload it somewhere I could access it. Then I could experiment with electronics integration and figuring out how to make her as light as possible.
>>13594 Sorry for the Confusion. Basemesh is not rigged and its just a static model for the moment. She is also not broken up into the various printable parts yet. Also found another open source robot very similar to Sophie. https://medium.com/pollen-robotics/we-are-releasing-reachys-models-for-creative-people-befe45b437fb
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>>13595 Ah, very well, good luck with modelling further AllieDev. That reminds me of Poppy https://www.poppy-project.org/en/
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>>13595 After testing various designs, foam filled PLA has the lowest density for a part of usable strength. I overfilled it to, in practice we should be able to get even better results. Both parts are 6 cm cylinders with a height of 1 cm.
>>13611 That is an excellent idea managing the overall weight of the body. Would help so see a cross section of the part under the top with what brand of polyurethane foam you are using. and for me to get around to cleaning out my printer again. PLA was coming out from behind the hot end after I'd cleaned it out and was in a state of "fuck that printer." for a week. Cleaned out most of the junk and it peeled right off the hot end.
>>13615 The polyurethane filled one just has a hole in the center for the filament to bridge to. I'm just using the cheapest Great Stuff spray foam. There are far better polyurethane foams for our purpose, I just wanted to use something cheap fast and easy for the sake of testing. As for your printer, when I had a similar problem it was because the nozzle was broken. It looked completely fine but, replacing it solved all the problems.
>>13616 >the nozzle was broken Good news, I cleaned it out thoroughly and tightened the coupling and hot end to be tighter in this time and it works again. Had to use the provided needle and melt most of it through. What was on the outside peeled off surprisingly easy up through the threading after being cooled down. The test print I had came out great. Though I've only ever successfully printed in raft because the prints just don't stick to the bed as well even after I've cleaned the bed with isopropyl alcohol. >I'm just using the cheapest Great Stuff spray foam That works. Have not looked that much into foams.
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>>13616 Glad to hear your printer is fixed now. I personally smother my print bed in glue stick. When the bed is hot, the glue melts and bonds to the plastic. It comes off with a little wiggle of the bed. (I use removable beds) Any broad flat scraper will pop it off too if you don't use removable beds. Hope we both can start printing parts for her soon. I already did the research, low density marine grade closed cell polyurethane foam is ideal for our purpose. It only needs the thinnest of shells to be surprisingly durable. We print out Mado's parts, fill them with slight amounts of foam, let them expand and cure for a day, and she's both light and durable. Also, could you please provide the total volume of current basemesh? With a volume I could get a better idea of her actual mass rather then relying on the estimates from a Neptunia model we are currently using.
>>13618 Basemesh volume is 20790.806 cubic centimeters when scaled to the correct height. Really weird how almost perfectly exact that number is given some rounding.
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>>13620 She's incredibly lithe then. A human woman of healthy weight generally has a volume over 60,000 cubic centimetres. Which works out great, I found marine foam that's 9.8 kg per cubic metre. This would put her at less than 600 grams for her foam assuming she was completely filled. This could lead to her being similar to if not lighter than Senjougahara afflicted with crab.
>>13617 Check out this video on G10, it may be the material you need for a working bed. https://youtu.be/g0PK4oXbJT8
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>>13622 >Lithe? That character is physically bigger than she is. So of course the volume would be lower and she would be lighter. A layer of inner foam for impact resistance would work for the limb segments (including the hands and feet), and torso. Though would have to keep in mind printing the inner wall so the foam could have a mold in the first place. Would also depend on how thick the foam layer is since that would also take away from internal storage space. For the head, would be my only concern due to how complex a shape it is. Most of the time a standard infill works just fine from what I've seen in Sophie and the Japanese dolls in the abandoned projects thread on here, so It would seem like a lot of extra work for no reason since she has to have blinking eyes and a talking mouth and have a removable skull section for easy matinence. Since she has relatively short hair we should be fine, but the wig should be trimmed down to around her waist or mid torso so it never gets caught up in the wheels or joints. The shoulder pads would prevent it from getting caught in the arms. For the clips I will modify what I have made to either be tied together somehow or have a thin connector section with a hole in the middle for the hair to go through with small magnets in the sides to keep firmly attached to the head. They should be very light since they'd be hollow like ribbons anyway. Maybe could be reworked into external flashlights beyond being cosmetic. Also have to take into account the maximum tolerance for her actuators being the weight of lifting an object + combined the weight of her appendages she is lifting. The stress of a shoulder is more than a wrist joint and so on. The next issue would be installing actuators that have a sufficient tolerance of 40-50 lbs for the arms and 120 lbs for the legs while remaining stiff enough to stand up on her own without a stick. The lightweight hollow arms would be sufficient to not contribute as much to the strain on the actuators. >>13624 I will try to use adhesive again since I assume you also have a stock Ender bed. I got a sample of Magigoo with my PTFE kit which looks like overpriced glue sticks from what I've researched. Costs more than a roll of PLA+ for a single stick. Raft is a very wasteful way to print in both time and material and It's something I'd like to not to do much of going forward.
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>>13628 Naturally she won't have foam reinforcing her entire form. Her low volume just means that foam will account for barely any mass. It's surprising how light she actually could be, especially compared to anything of a similar height. The head should not see any physical strain. 2 or 3 wall layers and 20 or 30 percent infill should be just fine. A face plate and a scalp plate to access her internals is definitely a good idea as well. Though the picture we're working from depicts hair long enough to reach her heels, only going to mid torso is far superior for many reasons you probably already realize given your suggestion. Her hair clips are essentially mecha nekomimi so, a cat ear hairband with optional lights would be appropriate. >120 pounds for her legs We're making her ultralight, why would she need such high torque? I use a steel print bed because my first one wore out. Those specialty adhesives rarely ever work better then normal glue stick but, getting a free sample is nice. Good luck, hope those rafts are no longer needed with your Magigo.
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>>13632 >why would she need such high torque? So she can stand up on her own and not collapse on her face. I am not an engineer. However, I get she's not a powerloader. Was just throwing out a higher number than the arms since the legs have to support the entire weight of everything above them and be stiff enough to do it. Also looking around for ideas on breaking the basemesh into parts that make sense. Plan was to cover it all in a skin material at the end anyway and also wanted to have fingers that work. Would make more sense to print sections of the limbs since they do not have a radius bigger than the print area of an Ender 3/5 and I can break the arms down into something like this or reachy's. SophieDev even had a similar idea with some success. https://twitter.com/61laboratory/status/1446835094518317057 I do have concerns about the torso segments fitting in the build space horizontally. The average width of the torso is 4-6 inches and the length is around 8 inches at most around the hips and seems too small but then I measure Reachy and he is smaller than her. Her arm is around the same size as this but thinner. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4fB0rVJI8g Though working Fingers are another Problem even with Hollow hands along with cooling. Just showing some of the topology of reachy's joints. Upon further inspection of his Eyes I could probably make a miniaturized version that fits inside an eyeball like the picture and have an LED's shining through yellow tinted plastic like with the lights on her torso.
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>>13637 Ah, similar robots of similar heights used similarly strong actuators. Like CHARLI (picrel) http://www.romela.org/charli-cognitive-humanoid-autonomous-robot-with-learning-intelligence/ I would recommend breaking her mesh down into halves and quarters. We can figure out how her servos integrate into her mesh when those are finalized. Hands are easy, see other picrel. 8 inch wide hips are incredibly small. I never would have imagined Madoka only had 20 cm wide hips but, she is tiny. This is good to know, her internal mechanisms will need to be streamlined. Reachy is another interesting robot for sure.
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>>13639 This was from Kiwi, my PC updated and my name went away. Also, I was planning on localizing her servos into her torso in a similar way as this linkage driven arm.
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>>13639 That makes the hand a lot simpler to break down. Should not be a problem with hollowed out arms. >I would recommend breaking her mesh down into halves and quarters I broke them down to where the natural joints show up, which is basically what you suggested. Did not attempt to break down the hands yet. The joints would obviously be replaced by the mechanical parts. Also broke the torso down into a simple three parts so she can lean. may end up just attaching the ankle screws as some form of cosmetic or cut them entirely. Used some of the simple design Reachy had for an elbow as a reference so the arm or joint is not damaged when pulled closer with a simple bevel. figured the wrist joint would be hidden by the bracers anyway. >>13641 That was also what I had in mind. Have been double checking her measurements and apparently she is 1.52 m according to blender. I'd scaled her to a block of the same size and then imported her PSP game asset to make sure she is correct. Only her limbs are super thin compared to it and I began to adjust the proportions to fit. Her torso was surprisingly accurate and more detailed than the game asset. The Game asset's legs were also a lot straighter and thicker than the workflow I had been following which encouraged a slight bend from the knee down to the ankles. Will have to remake them for better stability and durability.
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>>13645 Big fan of the move to a more ball joint-esque aesthetic. Overall, good job for splitting her body up in ways that are sensible and congruent with desired degrees of freedom. Her hips should be rounder where they connect to her pelvis though I'm sure this is an iterative design and you are aware. Good idea to check against an official game asset. That is as close to her real world physical measurements as we can attain. Her legs are probably straighter because the Japanese like "chopstick legs" i.e. long straight and slender legs. Making them thicker will help with stability and should not add much to her mass.
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>>13645 Cute, What's her topology looking like? The normals on her feet/shoes appear to be inverted by the way.
>>13647 Was messing around with some ball joint hinge ideas. This was just something I know would not fit, but the concept was simple enough. It would conflict with the hollow part design we already have. Don't recall ever going over what specific motors we were going to use.
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>>13661 That looks kind of like a revoltech joint. We definitely can use those with push and pull rods for it.
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>>13661 Drew some designs in a notebook for her basic mechanisms. She'd walk by shifting her mass using her waist mechanism then moving her legs. Similar to Dr.Guero's 4 servo biped. http://ai2001.ifdef.jp/mr1/mr1.html
A Design like that would work modified to fit inside the chasis. Though her torso would be lighter than her bottom half.

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