/robowaifu/ - DIY Robot Wives

Advancing robotics to a point where anime catgrill meidos in tiny miniskirts are a reality.

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Welcome to /robowaifu/, the exotic AI tavern where intrepid adventurers gather to swap loot & old war stories...

Waifu Materials Robowaifu Technician 09/12/2019 (Thu) 03:04:33 No.154
I would define a robowaifu as a doll with robotic features. However there are many different types of dolls (BJD, cloth doll, sex doll, etc). A doll has a skin or surface material, sometimes a filler (cotton), and sometimes internal structure (bones and joints).

Continuing the discussion from (((>>2831 >>2836 todo:relink))) , I want to create a thread to explore the many possible surface materials for a waifu (robo or no). The most important decision is whether to use a hard or soft material.

Hard Materials
>3D Printed Hard Plastic (PLA/ABS)
>Injection Molded Hard Plastic

Soft Materials
>Natural Fabrics (Cotton, Silk, Wool)
>Synthetic Fabrics (Vinyl, Polyester, Nylon)
>Fur/Hair (presumably synthetic, inb4 yiff in hell)
>Silicone or TPE Rubber (TPE is basically a cheaper form of silicone)

I'm strongly biased against the hard materials for comfort reasons. Personally, I have a hard time seeing myself falling in love with something hard, but others on this board talk about using hard materials, so I'm trying to keep an open mind.

My preference is for silicone, but there are four big problems with it. Firstly, it's expensive. Secondly, it impedes modification after the silicone has set. Thirdly, it contributes to the uncanny valley/silicone slut issue. Fourthly, it is heavy, and this weight really constrains the skeleton, posablity, and probably robotics. Because of the weight, silicone dolls have heavy-duty skeletons.

My second choice is therefore fabric, presumably stuffed with cotton. Fabric is super comfy, and has no uncanny valley issue. A non-fuggable fabric doll or robot would have no stigma issue, and could be the start of a productive hobbyist scene with plenty of females. Fabric is extremely lightweight which could be a plus or a minus. By itself, its unsubstantial and not ideal for robotics. A fabric robot is possible, but it requires hard, heavy parts underneath to provide structure and as actuators, which would make it less comfy. The fabric could be a textile (cotton), a synthetic leather (resembles skin, makeup/dress-up potential), or synthetic fur for you furfags out there.

Another possibility is a hard vinyl BJD-like doll with a layer of something comfy on top. Alternately, you all can reject my comfort autism if the benefits of having a hard doll/robot are clear enough. I'd like to hear others make the case for a hard doll/robot, since I don't think I could do the argument justice.

Finally, this is a discussion, not a debate. There are multiple paths we could take, and I'm sure different robowaifuists will try different techniques to see what works and what doesn't. I'm more interested in seeing what options are on the table than shutting down any particular approach.
Bacterial cellulose may be an interesting material to use. It absorbs additives such as silicone very easily and it can easily be made at home. All you need to do is to culture your own kambucha.
>>2959 That's a good point anon. Anything we need to be biodegradable in particular would be a good candidate for this process, I think.
Could we make the skeleton out of mycelium or some mycelium composite? I hear it is pretty strong and very light. We would also be able to grow it into what ever shape we wanted.
>>3058 That's a very interesting idea Anon. Even if it couldn't replace a more readily-available construction stock entirely, it might be a great part of some type of composite. Such as the cores of struts or structural frames, for example. You mind digging around for more information on the current research into this notion and then sharing it here with all of us Anon?
How to make mycelium brick https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6nurN-Hii8 Physical properties https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/11/1/281/pdf https://imechanica.org/files/MyceliumComposite_AuthorCopy.pdf Apparently it can be made more flexible and soft too. Here are some instructions on how to make it into a leather like substance. https://biofabforum.org/t/method-of-making-mycelium-leather/218 It could potentially be made into a fabric or foam like substance as well. If we play around with it maybe we could replace the need for silicon. This stuff has antimicrobial properties and it is waterproof.
Edited last time by Chobitsu on 05/13/2020 (Wed) 01:02:15.
The properties of our waifu will depend on the species of fungus used. Here are the ones being used in industry right now. Trametes ochracea Schizophyllum commune Ganoderma lucidum pleurotus ostreatus Irpex lacteus Ganoderma oregonense Piptoporus betulinus
>>3063 >>3064 Just the the kind of info we need, thanks.
>>3066 Oh did I mention how easy it is to repair? Just take a live piece of mycelium and it will grow to the rest of the body. Heat up the area and kill it then you are good to go.
>>3068 That sounds remarkable, Anon. In engineering there are always trade-offs. Can you spell them out for us concerning this material, as you see it for the moment?
>>3071 Maintaining a store of living material that needs to be fed and watered and so on sounds like it'd be pretty significant.
>>3073 Yep, for sure that. I rather meant it the sense of structural/mechanical engineering aspects, actually. For example, I'd imagine that humidity in any form would significantly degrade the material--much moreso than a likened metal part would.
I mean it isn't as strong as metal, but if we aren't using silicone then we don't need it to be. Now humidity can be a problem but that can be solved by rubbing wood tar on the mycelium.
>>3100 >by rubbing wood tar on the mycelium. very interesting idea. Care to elaborate on that process here for all us uninitiates, Anon?
The most costly part of making robowaifus seems to be manufacturing parts. Your options are either really far-removes materials with limited functionality like fabric, or more complex stuff that requires equipment so expensive you have to ask for a quote and say what company you belong to. Maybe machines that assemble themselves(synthetic biology) will be both complex and inexpensive? The knowledge barrier is higher though. Just putting this idea out there.
>>3111 >The most costly part of making robowaifus seems to be manufacturing parts. I get your point, but from my alternate perspective, the most costly part is the part we're all doing now--namely spending the time needed to get over the learning curve of what's already out there and applicable here, inventing what's needed to fill in the gaps. We have to walk the fine line between exceptionally expensive approaches in the luxury car, even supercar price ranges on the one hand, and cheap Chinese toy knockoffs on the other. There simply don't exist any easily-reproducible robowaifus in the ~$2K price range yet. >Your options are either really far-removes materials with limited functionality like fabric, or more complex stuff that requires equipment so expensive you have to ask for a quote and say what company you belong to. We will need to change this ofc. Help us figure it all out? >Maybe machines that assemble themselves(synthetic biology) will be both complex and inexpensive? The knowledge barrier is higher though. I can't speak to that from experience can anyone yet? but I admit I basically rather skeptical this will be achievable in a reasonably-near time-frame. More traditional robotics approaches and systems exist today however. >Just putting this idea out there. It's good stuff Anon, much appreciated.
>>3112 I was thinking about the nervous system and how you could make something that can detect cold, heat, pain and pressure. A 3-d printer capable of printing something on the same scale as the smallest nerves is at least $2000. I found an article on artifical nerves that resemble circuits, but to produce them they needed a spin-coater among other things. A lower budget one is around $400 dollars and who knows if it's good enough for that. The human body doesn't need large pieces of machinery to make its tiny parts and fit them together. What's your time-frame? 20 years sounds pretty good to me.
>>3113 >A 3-d printer capable of printing something on the same scale as the smallest nerves is at least $2000. That type of setup is for Anons who are creating a small factory setup to create the $US 2K kits. I should have delineated the targeting better. Good manufacturing equipment will cost money ofc, such as foundries, CNC milling, pro-grade printing etc., but those are all just line-of-business costs for the entrepreneurs among us. The everyman will simply follow our guides and we'll have tier-level kits he can use to get himself over the hump in creating his own robowaifu in the privacy of his own home.
After the mycelium is done drying you rub a little bit of wood tar (preferably pine or birch tar) and it acts as a protective layer to prevent moister from getting in. It also makes the mycelium even MORE resistant to microbes.
>>3105 >>3117 thanks anon, that sounds like a good idea. any recommendations where to pick up the wood tar?
>>3118 You can make it yourself through the destructive distillation of wood or you can buy it at a farm supply/feed store. Some hardware stores carry it too.
>>3071 Oh another draw back I forgot to mention is that it takes about 1 and 1/2 to 4 weeks to grow depending on the species of mushroom and nutrient used.
>>3121 >>3122 Sounds good, thanks for the info Anon.
Areas where materials choice seems to matter most is in structure and detailing, right? The muscles, computation, power, and cooling should be taken into account, but overall the materials used will determine structure, frame, and detailing as well as texture and feel. For the frame, the material would need to be light and strong, as well as cheap. I'm partial to endoskeletons as I find exoskeletons to be somewhat unnatural and not human enough for my tastes, but to each their own. Metal would be either too heavy or too expensive, wood would be too heavy and not strong enough, and while artificial bone does exist I imagine it is difficult to acquire or at least expensive. Personally, I believe that polyester resin with netted glass fiber would be the better option. It is stronger and lighter than bone, and can be casted. If we are basing the general frame of the robot on the human skeletal system, the entire skeleton would still cost about $80-100 which is somewhat high, but not prohibitively high. Fungus is a cheaper but more labor intensive option and I have doubts as to whether it has the strength required. From some limited research, mycelium seems to have extremely low tensile and compression strengths. This isn't to say that it wouldn't be a good material for non-structural components, just that it would make for a very poor frame. I could be wrong and my sources outdated, and I hope this is the case, but for the time being it seems as if fungus may only be good for more cartilaginous areas. I think it is important to keep in mind that most animals are sacks of organs and muscles and bones, and our robot could be as well. hydraulic or pneumatic muscles put on a skeletal frame would make up the bulk of the overall form and could also account for the softer feel that a human has while maintaining function. I don't think that there are many parts of this synthetic form that really require padding besides the organs (computation, battery, and coolant) and more aesthetic details such as the face and maybe hands. Mycelium may prove useful in this regards due to its price, but given the range of more fleshy silicone it may be unnecessary.
>>4224 If we hold to the idea that the skeletal frame is internal and the general form being determined mainly by the artificial muscles, then the only other thing to consider is the skin. It would be nice to be able to use the skin to vent heat from the internals as part of the coolant system, but it isn't a requirement. Skin is a difficult material to pin down. The most obvious is silicone, but that could be quite expensive. One option is to limit skin to sections that are likely to be seen or felt, and having the rest covered in a wire mesh or cheaper soft plastic. Any ideas?
>>4224 >I'm partial to endoskeletons as I find exoskeletons to be somewhat unnatural and not human enough for my tastes, but to each their own. <not loving toasters smh fam /clang/ would like a word with you. >If we are basing the general frame of the robot on the human skeletal system, the entire skeleton would still cost about $80-100 which is somewhat high, but not prohibitively high. IMO, if we can devise an effective, durable, and strong skeleton for a full-sized (145cm+) robowaifu at that price, we should count our many blessings Anon. It would be a veritable bargain. >and more aesthetic details such as the face and maybe hands. all the sexually-interesting parts need to be soft-ish, and the pelvic structure needs to be able to stand up to a pounding w/o damage.
>>4225 >but it isn't a requirement. IMO it's a fundamental tbh. >Skin is a difficult material to pin down. It sure is, but thankfully there are a wide array of synthetics available to choose from. >One option is to limit skin to sections that are likely to be seen or felt, Actually I think this is a great idea. Maybe a very thin covering over the entire shell, with extra padding where it's needed. And as Anons have pointed out, openly acknowledging the robotic nature of our robowaifus can actually be an endearing trait for her. >tl;dr Don't have to cover all her robot parts up with 'skin'.
>>4240 >Don't have to cover all her robot parts up with 'skin'. Perfect.
>>4257 Yep, that's the idea Anon.
>>4240 >>4257 You know it occurs to me (just to extend this discussion of heat transfer through the skin) that if you design certain areas with a kind of 'soft-but-mostly-rigid' mesh that air can literally pass directly through (kind of like it appears the ex machina robowaifu has) then internal air-cooling can be higher speed out through those meshes, whether it's purely-passive or active cooling. Maybe on the scalp under her wighair, and the upper chest/clavicle/back areas (since heat rises and she'd be upright most of the time)?
>>4261 Also, I guess you'd need the corollary air intakes lower down to get a 'flue effect'. Maybe on the outside thighs, and sides/lower back?
>>4262 Problem with an air intake close to the ground is dust and humidity from the air and the space that an intake and potentially a filter would take. Having the air intake in the lungs would have the same filtration problem, but the it might be easier to fit. Having the coolant system draw heat to either the skin or just cooling passively as it goes through more open mesh areas would be possible on a closed loop, but might not be as effective. Temperature regulation is a tricky one.
>>4263 True. We'd want replaceable foam electrostatic dust filters directly behind the intake meshes if this design was chosen. They'd still need to be open enough to allow some passive flow through. And yeah, having serviceable lungs would be a great choice >"Hold on honey, I need to open your bewbs for a few minutes. Gambatte!" >"*looks away & blushes* A-as long as it's you, Oniichan. G-go ahead..." It would be purely active (and therefore energy-consuming) but we might be able to devise some type of bellows arrangement that would increase basic efficiency. >Temperature regulation is a tricky one. It surely is. BTW, we're quite off-topic ITT, mind continuing this in the dedicated thermal management thread Anon? >>234
>>154 >Synthetic Fabrics As a skin for areas that are less likely to be seen or felt synthetic fabrics could save on cost, as the alternative is silicone which can be quite expensive given the skin is the largest organ. Another use for synthetic fabrics is in tendons and ligaments, since the fibers are strong but can allow for some give where needed without wearing on the frame, joints, or other mechanics. Nylon in particular seems ideal.
>>4330 Both very good points. In some of my earlier designs I was using nylon ribbons as the force transfers mechanism for lighter-weight arms & legs. And this idea may still wind up proving useful. Thanks for the ideas Anon.
The skin for the premium models will also need to hold a lot of sensors. I generally want to try spandex/silicone as outer skin layer. The coloring of lovedolls is often not very good, they reflect to much from the surface. Human skin layers are quite translucent, light goes a bit into it. I hope to do something similar with silicone without or very small amount of color on top of the spandex which might be colored a bit. For sensors we will need these conductive fabrics with silver, which is quite light colored, so I'm not sure if the spandex will even be necessary.
>>4349 >Human skin layers are quite translucent, light goes a bit into it. Quite true. It's been quite a focus of realism efforts in film & vidya. It's referred to as 'Subsurface Scattering' in the industry, and you'd be surprised I'd be the amount of attention it has been given.
PVC tubes for waterlines might be very tempting to use for prototyping of skeletons or pneumatic air cylinders. Please keep the dangers in mind, only use it when necessary, and maybe ad warning stickers to any prototype using it. Here some answer I wrote in regard of a video on building a pneumatic cylinder out of pipes: >>5103 You're welcome. Just looked into it again, to make sure I didn't remember that wrong or it has been debunked. The story I remembered was a house fire where everything was extremely toxic after PVC burning as a part of it. Upside is, it doesn't easily catch fire, the downsides are if it does burn then it's extremely toxic and also even heating it up releases carcinogenous gas. So, yeah, try to avoid it, exept maybe for waterlines under cement. What the guy in the vid does, might also be okay.
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Here's a tutorial for creating something similar to Sugru, some fast curing silicone rubber, called Ogoo: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/ "an inexpensive silicone clay that is easily made. It can be used as an excellent substitute for Sugru. It can be hand molded or cast in forms. Or, it can be used as a casting silicone. It can be colored any color from white to black. It can also be made translucent to allow diffused light to shine through. It can even be painted on in thin layers. It has very good adhesive qualities and will stick to itself, glass, fabric, paper, wood, and some plastics and metals." The article goes into some comparisons beetween different silicone rubbers and the difficulties with them. This Ogoo is clear silicone caulk mixed with corn starch, which helps it to cure faster and also from the inside. This might be in particular interesting for bigger parts. But it's usefull for a lot of things, like paint and sheets. Please keep in mind that this is not food safe like the medical silicone used in professional dolls. Caulk like that often has anti-mold chemicals in it, to keep it from going moldy, which might be toxic. I also don't know how well it holds up over time. So it might be fine for prototyping or for use in parts which don't come into direct contact with human skin. Maybe putting a layer of other silicone rubber on top of it will be necessary or at least adviseable in other use cases. That aside, please follow the tutorial. This material can be hand-molded, colored, but also sanded and carved after curing. There's also a explanation for how to make sheetslayers and tubes out of that material. I found this tutorial by random chance while looking into airmuscles, so it can be used for that. It can also be made translucent and conductive by using graphite powder (Oggo-2: https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Conductive-Rubber-Transparent-stylus-iPodiP/ ) or still be used as a silicone rubber paint, or to make conductive cloth or artificial skin (flexible circuits or conductive rubber: https://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Rubber-Make-Touch-Sensitive-Robot-Skin/ ) and also conductive glue. Advantages of Oogoo over Sugru: 1- Made from inexpensive and easily obtained materials. 2- Easy to work and mold into forms. 3- Will set up quickly at any thickness. 4- Can be mixed in any color. 5- translucent structures possible for lighting aplications. 6- slightly more flexible than Sugru. Advantages of Sugru: 1- Much milder fumes, can be easily used indoors. 2- Cures to a harder rubber. 3- Gives more working time. 4- Already mixed. 5- Somewhat easier to smooth. 6- Carves easier than Oogoo.
>>5154 Neat. I'm actually a much better sculptor than I am a 3D modeler. I'd like to first fashion a full-sized robowaifu default-posed statue, then 3D-scan her in and then use that scan data to begin fashioning foam molds, armature designs, etc., from. Thanks for the tip Anon!
>>4224 I'm very skeptical about the mycelium, it just sounds like another unproven idea that gets hyped because it seems like it would be good for the environment. I've grown oyster mushrooms before (pleurotus ostreatus) and while a sawdust block can maintain its shape when fully colonized it breaks apart very easily. I didn't try cooking it like in the video, but I can't imagine it making much of a difference. >>5154 this one is very interesting, maybe it can be used to make cheap and easy to mend skin by coating some elastic fabric like lycra with it
>>154 Ever look closely at cosplay EVA foamcraft? Easy to work, tough, lite weight, flexible and can be coated and sealed in many types of "skin". Better for the robo than the waifu depending on personal preference. Bet a life sized Jenny could be built like foam armor with lots of space inside for robo-gubbins.
>>6506 That's not a bad idea Anon. I've been toying around with different ideas to skin my tensegrity space frame limbs & skeleton. This may be just the ticket. Have any particular brand/source recommendations? Less expensive is better tbh.
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>>6507 No expert advise but I am soon able to network with a cosplay designer for a brain picking. I'm just an armchair casual for now but I am keeping my eyes and ears open. Take soft sculpture for example. Picrelated is made from nylons, fluff and wire. Mind you it's only painted nylon and quite porous. However I have been experimenting with coating cloth in TPE rubber skin by thinning it out with xylene and painting it on (in a very ventilated area with mask). Heat gun can smooth and blend layers later. Turns out you don't need molds necessarily to work rubber skin. Hot sculpting and wet sculpting takes patience but is doable. This technique works best in modular sections at least until I have a full body paint booth. Tempted to do full skin in separate patches of different skin tones like the super soldier skin from Sea Quest.
>>6512 Thanks for the advice. I certainly would be cheaper for one-off work to just do lay-ups and not go to the expense and trouble of making molds first. Glad to hear it's feasible. Pretty nice work so far, definitely a good-looking form. Keep it up Anon.
>>6513 God I wish that was my work. That's a Lichtenfeis doll. She is a retired Henson puppet maker. Considered the master and inventor of the art form. My experiments so far belong in jars whispering "please...kill...me" for now but proves to me it can work. LOL
>>6514 Oh, haha my mistake. Still, I think /robowaifu/ eventually will be producing things that are better than that. IMO, going for the waifu look both resolves the uncanny valley issue, and produces both more interesting and more aesthetic waifus at the same time. Thanks for all the hard work Anon, we'll all get there!
>>6579 Seconded! The valley is all about casting an illusion based on expectations. Something looks picture perfect and has one flaw it you will be subconsciously repulsed. My opinion isn't to reproduce people but to create a personal accessory companion/assistant. Domestic robotics are coming. I like this community. It is focusing on a specific style ascetic that I appreciate more than a self propelled trashcan (*cough roomba or R2D2 style). An electric Geisha can serve many roles from hat rack or teddy bear to tele-presence interface or friendly home automation front end. Frankly these roles would be weird going through a lifelike reproduction as apposed to a proper robowaifu style. I might be in the minority dreaming of waifu as device and not people. But I think devices are getting complicated enough to require rights soon. Just because the critter is built don't mean you don't need to be kind to it. After all, we're all stardust, man and bot. Devices that inspired empathy could be good for humanity.
>>6507 Oh, I thought this material would already be known here. I have a sheet lying around for later experiments. I don't think you need a special brand, and there are videos on Youtube on how to handle it. I thought I posted one of those here at some time. Whatever, I think you'll need a heatgun, and I only got mine recently. I'd like to try letting silicone getting soaked into it, bc otherwise its's just like some textile. Of course you could go the other way and make it rigid like armor, but this isn't my direction. We should always being aware of other makers and collect all ideas we might be able to use for our waifus. There are also hackers building machines that can knit or weave, which also might become usefull. I also bought a thin film of silicone on AliExpress, 0.2 mm or so, for experimenting. This might work better in some cases than using some liquid silicone as paint, especially if it would also be food safe grade. >>6512 Thanks, but a term or name for the method for searching on Youtube or for papers or articles might be useful. I do have TPU for my printer, TPE is only a very general term if I recall correctly. What kind of TPE were you using? However, I also want to note that there's a reason the more expensive dolls are made out of silicone rubber, since it's very endurable and can be made even medically safe. >>6514 Holy F... that's a doll? I didn't expand the picture bc the text was about the cloths. I thought this was a human model. But yeah, the the typical crap fingers give it away, and after expanding the pic, the face also tells me "not human" and also not so great anymore.
>>6785 The term is "soft sculpture" the name of the artist is " Lisa Lichtenfeis". Forgive me if I didn't communicate clearly. The idea is to blend techniques, soft sculpting over a robotic frame then painting/ hot sculpting the skin on top. Casting a whole body at once is so crude and mass produced. We are artisans. When it comes to the "TPE" that is a good question. In all the doll forums it's always "TPE vs silicone" then they wax poetic about platinum cured etc silicones and TPE is just generalized lump. So sex doll "TPE" that is an oil based synthetic flesh matrix that can be thermal molded or chemically dissolved, painted wet, hot molded warm and cast molten. IE: been butchering 20 lbs of ass in the name of science for a while.
>>6841 Yeah, thanks I will look into her work. Obviously this is much closer to what we need to do than casting a whole doll body. My thinking for a while now is that there will be something like a upper skin layer out of Spandex/Powermesh or other textile, then putting thin silicone onto it, so it soaks in or run down. Haven't tried that though, it's just a idea so far. I also bought some very thin silicone sheet which is pressed in a machine.
>>6883 I have done exactly what you are thinking about. Skinning cloth. It works! But I use the mentioned "sex doll TPE" not silicone. Unlike silicone it can be reworked and salvaged from premade sources making it a much more versatile and cheap option. Using TPE lets you skin chunks of cloth, stitch them together and melt and blend the seams together. You can also paint as much as your work area allows like a full body. You can use it as a glue so you can combine parts into complex shapes (like eye lids or lady bits). I'm working on techniques by first sewing, then painting with xylene thinned rubber. Then once cured, using a heat gun to rework the skin using patterned rollers and sponges for skin textures . This style will work fantastic for modular body styles. Allowing a creator to make smaller individual parts that can be upgraded or swapped later. Using the cosplay foamcraft as a shape holding scaffolding for a soft sculpt-able layer that can then be skinned makes a cheap and easy way to make some (moving part accommodating) curves!
>>6889 What about the toxic fumes? TPE from dolls is toxic when heated...
>>6892 If you heat it too fast the oil will vaporize. Go slow, wear the same mask you would for epoxy. Don't put your face in oil smoke. I have a specific painting room with two fans (soon a proper hood and airbrush set up). It's the xylene fumes that require more care. It can make smoke with heat, it's not good for you but it's not a chemical plume. Just smokes like fake bacon a bit. Still wear a mask with filters. You will need the same kind of set up for silicone too. None of this is play dough.
>>6895 >You will need the same kind of set up for silicone too. None of this is play dough. Thanks for the warning. Anons should take care with safety during manufacture ofc.
>>6943 This would become a real breakthrough for many areas of robowaifu design & manufacture if they can be made inexpensive and reliable. It would be an advance for many other domains too ofc. Very cool Anon, thanks.
>>6943 That's amazing. I wounder how long this stuff lasts when soaked into some textile or similar material. One problem with soft skin and soft muscles is to put sensors into them which last very long. The other electronic cold be in the bones, well protected. The sensors would need to be very resilient, but also the "cables" to transport their data to the next processor in the bones. Cables don't work very well, I bought a whole bag of earphones recently, because they only last a few weeks at maximum.
>>6943 Awesome! If this goes mainstream it could come in very handy for folding and bending circuitry to fit inside small spaces. Like the inside of a robowaifu chassis!
>>6943 >>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallium >Elemental gallium is a liquid at temperatures greater than 29.76 °C (85.57 °F), and will melt in a person's hands at normal human body temperature of 37.0 °C (98.6 °F). >used in thermometers as a non-toxic and environmentally friendly alternative to mercury >Purities of 99.9999% are routinely achieved and commercially available. >>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indium >toxic when injected into the bloodstream >rare and not relevant: Indium lung >major future increases in the by-product production of indium will be possible without significant increases in production costs or price >The average indium price in 2016 was US$240/kg, down from US$705/kg in 2014 Looks like it's low risk and low cost. Looking forward to try this out one day...
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>>5106 >Plastics and risks. Maybe a nice warning label to print out as a reminder. Dangrs differ a lot, depending what plastic it is. ABS and ASA are also a bit closer to Styrene. PETG is safer than PETE and has a lower melting point, so it is used in 3D -Printing. I would still keep windows open or have a system to move te air out, or filter it. I actually collect HDPE, in case I ever try to recycle my PLA, because my this can be mixed into it.
>>9043 Thanks very much for the information Anon.
I used to work at a injection molding factory and if you are going to injection mold parts then do internal parts. Because injection molding is a expensive avenue, if you wanted to make plastic exteriors like forearma and calfs you can do it but the mold will be massive. We made plastic benches and even baby changing station and the molds are over 10 ton. They cost a family's organs to buy as well. Never mind your machine needs to be up to par to handle the mold. So you can easily spend quarter million to start even running the thing. So if you wanted to do injection molding is recomend internal parts. Our smaller molds were small components that went into other proceses like soil launchers. I recomend molding for sure but do vacuum forming and pour the parts in there. Learn from small dildo makers.
>>9211 I think I understand. Obviously any gigantic factory equipment wouldn't ever be a choice for any of us operating even small-factory operations from our garages, etc. But yes, seems like it would be a good approach for us maybe to 'create molds and do pours'. For the uninitiates among us, think you could explain what might be involved for an individual anon to set up some kind of operation to do just that? What kind of supplies and equipment would be needed for instance?
>>9226 Ill stick with the dildo analysis since it is easier to explain pours in that way. You first make your prototype, it can be anything like wood, metal, plastic. Pretty much anything that isn't the material that will make the mold. Once you have your prototype you then make your mold. Normally your mold will be made from a rubber epoxy. You put your prototype in a comtainer with a little bit sticking out to pill it out when you finish the pour of epoxy. Once the epoxy sets and hardens you pull out the prototype and then you have a mold. With that mold you pour your desired material mixture in, remember to not pour the same material as the mold bevause then you just ruined the mold, and you will now have a mold to make your desired parts.
>>9230 I see. Thanks Anon. So, if you wanted to just make a thin plastic shell of say, a robowaifu face or forearm, there would be at least one other step involved with the process?
>>9232 If you wanted a formed sheet if plastic like a face or forearm I recomend to look into vacuum forming. Taking a sheet of plastic, heating it up and using a vacuum to make the plastic form over a part. This is a good one to invest in to make outer shells. https://www.vaquform.com/
>>9233 >This is a good one to invest in to make outer shells. Very nice, thanks. A grand isn't out of reach for most of us who budget.
Health, safety and other considerations - The fungus Aspergillus fumigatus effectively degrades plasticized PVC. Phanerochaete chrysosporium was grown on PVC in a mineral salt agar. Phanerochaete chrysosporium, Lentinus tigrinus, Aspergillus niger, and Aspergillus sydowii can effectively degrade PVC. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_chloride#Health_and_safety - In the EU Risk Assessment the European Commission has confirmed that Di-isononyl phthalate (DINP) and Di-isodecyl phthalate (DIDP) pose no risk to either human health or the environment from any current use. ... In Europe and in some other parts of the world, the use of DINP in toys and childcare items has been restricted as a precautionary measure. In Europe, for example, DINP can no longer be used in toys and childcare items that can be put in the mouth even though the EU scientific risk assessment concluded that its use in toys does not pose a risk to human health or the environment. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_chloride#Health_and_safety - Plasticized PVC is a common material for medical gloves. Due to vinyl gloves having less flexibility and elasticity, several guidelines recommend either latex or nitrile gloves for clinical care and procedures that require manual dexterity and/or that involve patient contact for more than a brief period. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_chloride#Health_and_safety
>>9564 While we all should exercise all due diligence with our own efforts, globohomo (((cautions & guidelines))) are often questionable at best. I would suggest that the more females are involved in the """investigation""", the more likely it is to be antithetical to rational evaluation, rightly balancing risks and rewards. I'd suggest we keep our eyes and ears open for safety issues, but regard the majority of health guidelines with blatant skepticism and a huge grain of salt. Is there any other need in this regard than mentioning the plainly deceptive example of the current evil machinations surrounding the Covid 'crisis', Anon?
>>9566 We can be sceptical about everything to some extent. It's probably a matter of trust, but we shouldn't ignore such guidelines. I won't. I still doubt that people would throw their scientific training and reputation away just to make things up. If you want to discuss that in some extended way, let's do it in the basement >>39
>>9588 Fair enough. Commonsense is justified. Just don't go acting like women over it, running around like a chicken with it's head cut off being blatantly manipulated over every.little.warning. They plainly will try to destroy us as a community legally, or by any other means they can contrive. Preemptively aborting the entire effort in the first place through hand-wringing fear on our parts would tickle their humors, I expect. Ridiculously, some people actually wear the masks willingly today. /robowaifu/ will never become an enclave of those types of people, friend.
This >>9564 is about using the right materials for the job when building something, and being aware of the constraints. Let's stay on topic please.
>>9592 I personally consider the discussion to be on-topic, board-health wise. Let's review: -we all should exercise all due diligence with our own efforts -rightly balancing risks and rewards -we [should] keep our eyes and ears open for safety issues -Commonsense is justified, but don't be overly fearful like some woman Did I miss anything? Oh yeah, just one: Our enemies will stop at nothing to destroy us. Demonic gaslighting is a favorite technique for them due to it's comedic effect. Again, all on topic for my part.
I don't really know shit about materials to use, but I was thinking of making the arms completely rigid up to mid-bicep and the legs up to the mid thigh. Everything else would have fake skin, possibly also the hands, because I don't want my junk getting pinched in the gap inbetween hard parts. Here's what I was thinking in terms of materials for the visible organic parts, mostly based on what regular prosthesis use: Hair: Polyester, Acrylic (maybe a rigid headpiece instead of hair) Eyes: Acrylic or Silicone Eyelashes: Polyester, Acrylic, Polycarbonate Teeth: Zirconia or Porcelain dentures Nails: Acrylic or Polycarbonate Tits: Saline and thickener (Japanese breast implants look better) Skin: TPE, Silicone or Latex like a Stretch Armstrong, which I believe is 0.2 to 0.5 thou thick. Covering joints should crinkle-up slightly when straightened, like the elbows instead of getting stretched too far when fully flexed. If an elbow joint has a 180° range of motion, the material should be cast with it bent at a 90° or at least a 45° angle. It might be a retarded idea, but I also keep thinking of vulcanized rubber like car tires, with carbon black for durability and painted a flesh tone would make it easy to spot any damage.
>>13157 Pretty good materials-list there Anon, thanks.
>>13157 >Tits: Saline and thickener (Japanese breast implants look better) Never had a love doll (so called sexdoll) but looked into it. The claim is, that silicone tits are much better than hollow ones. In breast enhancement for women they might also use silicone bags. So I don't know why you want to limit it to saline and thickener. Btw, silicone prosthetics are available on AliExpress. Didn't find good porcelain teeth, though. I hoped these were also available for training of dentists, but I only found dentures or veneers and often based on resin. I guess we have one more thing to model and build on our own.
>>13162 Thanks, but it's a really crude list because I don't really know what I'm doing. I'd prefer to limit it to as few different materials as possible if I could. >>13188 Breast implants are basically silicone balloons, which are typically filled with silicone oil/gel, but the ones I was referring to are instead thinner balloons filled with sterile medical saline, which tend to look just like jiggling water balloons when you spot them compared to the often overly-stiff silicone oil/gel ones common in the US. Since they don't need to go inside a body there's no reason a little cornstarch thickener couldn't be added to the saline for more realistic jiggle, which would probably lead to complications if they leaked inside an actual human body. Salt water and cornstarch is probably simpler than dealing with silicone oil.
>>13224 >I'd prefer to limit it to as few different materials as possible if I could. That's actually the mark of a seasoned pro. It's only the rank amateur that wants to pile on everything + the kitchen sink I'd day Anon. I hope you'll spend time and effort to further refine things for it tbh.
>>13245 Not really, I'm just cheap and lazy. I'd make the whole thing out of recycled wood if it didn't look and feel like shit or give my dick splinters.
>>13162 >>13245 I'm retarded. I only just realized that except for the teeth, tits, and skin, I listed acrylic for each of them. And looking at acrylic on wikipedia, it shows that there are artificial teeth made of acrylic too. I really need to learn how to machine this shit.
>>13279 >Not really, I'm just cheap and lazy Heh, like I said 'the mark of a seasoned pro'. :^)

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